Travel guide · Nature · 10 min read

Meesapulimala: The Whiskered Leopard Mountain

At 2,640 m, Meesapulimala is one of the highest peaks in South India, a mountain of rolling grassland, rhododendrons and shola forest above the clouds. Its name, its ecology, the trek and the stays, and what you need to know before you go.

By GK Global, Adimali, Munnar · Trails & Tales by GK

Seen from the southwest, the long summit ridge of Meesapulimala looks like the face of a great cat, with the grassy spurs on either side spreading out like whiskers. Hence its name: meesa, whiskers or moustache, puli, the big cat (in Malayalam the word is used for both the tiger and the leopard), and mala, mountain. It is one of the highest peaks in South India, and the summit trek is one of the finest walks in Kerala.

A mountain of grass and shola

Meesapulimala rises from the high plateau east of Munnar, in a landscape of rolling montane grasslands broken by dark patches of shola forest in the valleys. (Read about this ecosystem in our articles on Eravikulam and the shola national parks.) The trail crosses a series of grassy ridges and hills before the final steep, rocky climb to the summit.

The mountain is famous for its rhododendrons, the wild Nilgiri rhododendron, whose crimson flowers brighten the slopes mainly between about January and April. One of the valleys on the way, Rhodo Valley, is named after them. The grasslands are also home to neelakurinji, which turns the hills blue once every twelve years; the last great mass flowering in the Munnar hills was in 2018.

Wildlife includes gaur, sambar, elephants and leopards, which pass through the grasslands and sholas, and a rich variety of high-altitude birds and butterflies. On the cliffs, Nilgiri tahr are sometimes seen. (Read about the wild animals and the birds of the region.)

Stories on the mountain

Like many places in these hills, Meesapulimala has its legends. On the route is a rock shelter known as the Pandava Cave, linked in local tradition with the Pandava brothers of the Mahabharata, who are said to have wandered these hills during their exile. Similar traditions are found at Marayoor, whose very name is said to recall the place where the Pandavas hid.

The trek

Access to Meesapulimala is controlled by the Kerala Forest Development Corporation (KFDC), which runs treks and stays from its office in Munnar. The usual route is:

1. From Munnar to the KFDC base camp, about 24 km, past the KFDC flower garden and through the Silent Valley tea estate. KFDC packages usually include the vehicle transfer.
2. From the base camp to Rhodo Valley, on foot or partly by vehicle.
3. From Rhodo Valley, across the grassy hills and through patches of shola, to the summit.

The trek from Rhodo Valley to the summit and back is about 8 km; from the base camp on foot it is considerably longer. It is usually rated moderate: it needs good fitness but no climbing skills. Allow most of a day. The final section is steep and rocky, and slippery after rain. Numbers are limited each day, and the trek is done with a KFDC guide.

A second, older route climbs from Kurangani in Tamil Nadu via Top Station and Kolukkumalai. This route crosses fire-prone grasslands and is restricted; after the Kurangani forest fire of 2018, in which more than 20 trekkers died, trekking in the area has been tightly regulated. Never attempt it without the permission of the forest authorities. (See our guide to trekking and hiking in Munnar and Idukki.)

Staying on the mountain

KFDC offers overnight stays in tents at the base camp and in cottages such as the Rhodo Mansion and Sky Cottage, with meals. Staying overnight allows trekkers to start before dawn and reach high ground for the sunrise. Nights are cold: temperatures can fall to near freezing in December and January.

The views

On a clear day, the summit offers one of the greatest views in South India: the high ranges around Munnar, Anamudi to the west, the grasslands and tea estates of the plateau, and the plains of Tamil Nadu far below to the east. In the early morning, the valleys are often filled with a sea of clouds. The neighbouring tea estate of Kolukkumalai lies on the ridges to the south.

When to go

• September to February: the best season, with green hills, clear skies and the best chance of a sunrise above the clouds. December and January are the clearest and coldest months.
• March to May: warmer and drier, with good views and rhododendrons in bloom, but this is also the season of grass fires, and access may be restricted.
• June to August: the southwest monsoon: heavy rain, fog, leeches, slippery trails and possible closures.