Travel · Destinations · 7 min read

Chasing Mists and Monoliths: Illickal Kallu, the Split Rock of the Western Ghats

Above the hairpin roads of eastern Kottayam, a giant rock cleft in half rises through the clouds, flanked by an umbrella-shaped stone and a humpbacked hill. A guide to Illickal Kallu: its legends, the climb, the views and how to visit safely.

By GK Global, Adimali, Munnar · Trails & Tales by GK

The road from Erattupetta climbs and climbs. Rubber gives way to scrub, the hairpin bends tighten, and somewhere above Teekoy the mist begins to drift across the tarmac. Then, through a gap in the cloud, you see it: a colossal grey rock standing alone on the crest of the hills, its summit sheared clean away as if a giant had split it with an axe. This is Illickal Kallu, one of the most dramatic sights of the Western Ghats and among the best places to visit in Kottayam.

It is not just a viewpoint. It is a place where the clouds pour over the ridge like a slow white river, where the wind never stops, and where old stories still cling to the rocks.

The three rocks and their legends

Kuda Kallu, Koonu Kallu and Illickal Kallu

Three great rocks crown the hill, and each has a name drawn from its shape. Kuda Kallu, "the umbrella stone", spreads like a giant mushroom against the sky. Koonu Kallu, "the hunchback stone", carries a hump on its side. And Illickal Kallu itself, the tallest, is the split monolith whose upper half, legend says, broke away and fell long ago, leaving the sheer, cleft face that gives the hill its haunting silhouette. Between two of the rocks runs a knife-edge ridge only a few inches wide, known locally as Narakapalam, "the bridge to hell". It is not a path to be walked.

The glowing herb: Neelakoduveli

The most famous legend of Illickal Kallu concerns Neelakoduveli, a mysterious blue plant said to grow among the rocks near the summit. Folklore holds that it glows in the dark, that it floats against the current of a stream, and that whoever possesses it will be blessed with wealth, prosperity and abundant harvests. Generations of seekers are said to have searched for it on these slopes. No botanist has ever identified it, which only deepens the mystery.

The journey and the trek

Getting there

Most travellers come from Erattupetta, via Teekoy and Meladukkam or via Thalanad, climbing through a long series of steep hairpin bends with ever-widening views. The roads are narrow, with sharp turns and few crash barriers; there have been serious accidents here, so drive slowly, use low gears on the climbs and descents, and give way to oncoming traffic. Vehicles stop at the DTPC parking ground near the base, where there is a small information counter.

The final climb

From the parking ground, the last stretch is on foot: a steep path of grass and rock that takes most walkers between a short half-hour and an hour, depending on fitness and how often they stop for photographs. The wind picks up as you climb, the mist comes and goes, and the great rock grows above you until you stand at its foot.

The view from the top

From the ridge beneath the rock, the world falls away on every side. To the west, the lowlands of Kottayam spread out in a patchwork of rubber, paddy and villages, and on rare, crystal-clear days, a thin blue line on the far horizon is said to be the Arabian Sea. To the east roll the hills of Idukki and Vagamon. In the cool season, mornings often bring a sea of clouds filling the valleys below, with only the peaks rising above it. On full-moon evenings, if the sky is clear, you can watch the sun set in the west while the moon rises in the east. For photographers, the shifting mist, the silhouettes of the three rocks and the low golden light of early morning and late afternoon make this one of the finest locations in the Western Ghats.

Pro tips for travellers

• Best time: after the monsoon and through winter, from about September to February, for cool weather, green hills and the best chance of a sea of clouds in the early morning. The monsoon brings thick mist and drama, but also slippery rocks and poor visibility.
• Go early or late: sunrise for clouds in the valleys; late afternoon for sunsets and, on full-moon days, the moonrise.
• Footwear: sturdy shoes with a good grip; the rocks and grass are slippery when wet.
• Clothing: warm, windproof layers; the wind on the ridge is strong and cold even on sunny days.
• Safety: stay well back from cliff edges, never attempt Narakapalam, and keep children close. Do not climb in heavy rain, thunderstorms or thick fog.
• Carry: water and snacks (facilities are limited), a rain jacket, and a torch if you stay for sunset.
• Leave no trace: carry your plastic and litter back down.
• Combine with: the meadows, pine forest and paragliding hills of Vagamon, a short drive to the east; the falls of Marmala near Teekoy in the monsoon; and the old towns of Erattupetta and Pala.

Into the mist

Illickal Kallu is a place that changes by the minute: one moment a clear view to the sea, the next a wall of cloud, then a sudden window of light on the great split rock. It rewards those who are patient, who come early and stay late, and who treat the mountain with respect. Whether you come for the legend, the photographs or simply the wind on your face, it is a reminder of how wild and mysterious the Western Ghats can still be.

Would you brave the misty heights of Illickal Kallu, or do you prefer the calm of the valleys? Tell us, and share your photographs, on WhatsApp or through our contact page.

(Read also: Vagamon, Kuttikkanam and Peermade, trekking and hiking in Munnar and Idukki and the Thalanad clove, grown on the same hills.)