Travel · Destinations · 6 min read

Thommankuthu Waterfalls: The Seven-Step Falls of Idukki's Forests

Near Thodupuzha, a forest river tumbles down a staircase of rock pools in seven great steps. A guide to Thommankuthu: its legend, its cascades, the forest walks and guided treks to hidden falls and caves, and how to visit safely.

By GK Global, Adimali, Munnar · Trails & Tales by GK

Walk a few hundred metres into the forest from the little settlement at Thommankuthu and you hear it before you see it: the rush of water over rock. Then the trees part, and the river comes down towards you in a series of steps, white water spilling from one deep green pool into the next, framed by mossy boulders and tall trees. This is Thommankuthu, the famous seven-step waterfall of the Thodupuzha forests, and one of the loveliest places in the lower hills of Idukki.

Unlike the high, plunging falls on the road to Munnar, Thommankuthu is a staircase of cascades and pools spread along the river, surrounded by dense forest. It is a place for forest walks, for exploring a chain of falls and caves on foot, and for simply sitting by the water.

The legend of Thomman

Kuthu means waterfall in Malayalam, and Thommankuthu is "Thomman's waterfall". According to local tradition, a man named Thomman, remembered in some versions as a tribal leader or hunter, slipped and drowned while trying to cross the river here; another version tells of a later Thomman who died while crossing the river to gather fruit. The name comes from this story, not from the landscape. Either way, the story is a reminder of how treacherous these beautiful waters can be. Other legends speak of nymphs bathing in the pools and of healing herbs growing on the banks.

Key attractions

The seven steps

The heart of Thommankuthu is a great seven-tiered cascade, where the river drops over seven ledges of rock, each with its own pool at the foot. The most famous and beautiful of the falls is Ezhunilakuthu, the "seven-storey falls", about a kilometre's walk along the river from the entrance. Most visitors stop here, and in the monsoon and the weeks after, it is a thrilling sight.

A chain of hidden falls

The seven-step fall is only the beginning. Beyond Ezhunilakuthu lies a network of about twelve waterfalls spread over some 5 km of the Kaliyar forest range, fed by the clear waters of the Kannadiyaru, which flows untouched for about 20 km from the Plakkulam forest. Their names include names such as Thenkuzhikuthu, Chekuthankuthu, Palungankuthu, Kudachiyarkuthu, Thekkanthonikuthu and Koovamalakuthu. Scattered along the longer trekking route of about 12 km that climbs into the hills is a network of little-explored rock shelters and caves, including Plapothu, Palunkan, Maakkal and Narakan caves. These deeper falls and caves can be reached only on guided treks, with permission from the forest department.

Forest walks and eco-tourism

Thommankuthu is run as a forest eco-tourism centre, with walking trails, wooden bridges, simple huts and viewpoints. The forest around the falls is dense and green and rich in wildlife: wild elephants and sambar deer roam the deeper forest, and among the trees lives the flying lizard (Draco), a small "dragon" that spreads the flaps of skin along its sides like wings and glides from trunk to trunk through the canopy. Watch for it on tree trunks in the morning sun, along with many birds, butterflies and troops of monkeys. Tribal settlements lie deeper in the hills. Local guides lead walks along the river, pointing out the plants, trees and wildlife, and explaining the area's legends.

The Nakkayam–Thommankuthu trek

For more adventurous visitors, the forest department runs a guided day trek of about 5 km through rocky, dense forest, from Nakkayam to the source of the Thommankuthu falls. It passes the Nakkayam and Chekuthankuthu falls, several caves and a tribal settlement. The trek runs from about 8 am to 4.30 pm, groups are small (up to nine people), and it must be booked in advance through the Divisional Forest Office, Kothamangalam. Treks may be suspended in heavy rain, so confirm before you go.

Visit safely

Thommankuthu's beauty hides real danger. The rocks are slippery, the pools are deep and the currents strong, and people have drowned here. Warning boards at the viewpoints record lives lost.

• Do not bathe, swim or wade in the pools, especially after rain.
• Do not climb on the wet rocks or go near the edge of the falls.
• Follow the guides and caution boards, and keep children close.
• Avoid the river during heavy rain, when water levels can rise suddenly.

Best time to visit

• September to December: the best season, with the falls still full after the monsoon and the forest lush and green.
• January to March: pleasant weather and good for treks, though the flow is lower; deep-forest treks generally begin from December.
• June to August: the falls are at their most powerful, but trekking is usually suspended and the area can be dangerous.
• April and May: the flow is low, but the forest offers shade on hot days.

How to get there

• By road: about 18 km from Thodupuzha via Karimannoor or Vannappuram; about 60 km from Kochi and about 40 km from Adimali. It makes a pleasant detour on the way between Kochi and the high ranges.
• By rail: the nearest major stations are Aluva (about 65 km) and Ernakulam.
• By air: Cochin International Airport is about 65 km away.

(Read also: the waterfalls of Idukki, trekking and hiking in Munnar and Idukki and the ecological hotspots of Idukki.)